NEW YORK, United States — Every year I buy the September issue of American Vogue. It’s a good way to take the industry’s temperature. There, I can see all the ad campaigns in one shot and try to understand the image designers are trying to sell us. This season the look is decidedly dark. Ads from Gucci, Prada, Miu Miu, Proenza Schouler and others contain gothic elements, whether in the clothes, the makeup or the setting. Even Roberto Cavalli, whose success chiefly lies in flinging leopard prints at Russian parvenus, developed a campaign with subdued, dark colours and smoky-eyed models … More
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